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On November 27, 2021, we repurposed this blog to help Hip Campers better understand our property.  Expect one or two new posts daily between...

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11.27.2021

Land-O-Light

6:43 AM, November 9, 2021

We like to call out Place "The Land-O-Light."  Why?  Well, the Light Show here is pretty much a 24/7/365 gig, even on cloudy days.  At certain times, the Light Show goes over-the-top and produces truly spectacular sunrise and sunset events.   

Obviously, the most dependable Light Shows will be at sunrise or sunset.  However, light intensity and display usually precedes technical sunrise and sunset times.  For example. NOAA lists our current sunrise time as 7:12 AM (11/27/2021).  That time presumes no terrain on the horizon.  The sun actually peeks over The Mogollon Rim around 7:30 AM.  Meanwhile, the Best Light occurs around 6:45 AM when the area is still shrouded in pre-dawn darkness.

Clouds make the Light Show spectacular.  Depending on the type and density of the clouds, the Light Show can begin earlier-than-normal and extend much later than normal.

The same is true for the sunset.  Sunset Light Shows tend to last long and cover a much wider area of the sky than do sunrises events.  Technical sunset here in late fall is generally around 5:15 PM.  A sunset Light show can begin as early as 4:30 (depending on cloud type and coverage, of course) and last well after technical sunset.

Sometimes, there is a burst of "after light" in the evening that can bring alive the very high clouds far above the western horizon.

Our place has an unobstructed view of the sunrise.  Mesquite trees interfere with the sunset on the horizon itself but the upper atmosphere is unobstructed.

During late fall, the areas of both sunrise and sunset don't vary much.  However, you can use a phone app called "The Photographer's Ephemeris" or the NOAA sunrise/sunset calculator to determine both times and bearings.

Bottom Line for creating spectacular photos of either rise or set is to be prepared.  Get up early and get ready, especially if you know the clouds might be "right".  Likewise, arrive back at camp well before sunset.  Get set up and settled in and be prepared.  Keep an eye on the evolving light.  Have your photo spot picked out.  Know your equipment.  Preparation is the key to success.

We will eventually create a Google Photo album of some of our favorite views of the Land-O-Light Show so you can get an idea of what to expect.

Meanwhile, this is a pretty good Dark Sky area.  A very large sweep of night horizon has no lights whatsoever.  What few manmade lights do exist are scattered and not concentrated.  In the cold, crisp late fall night air, skilled astro photographers will have some excellent opportunities for captures here.

We ourselves enjoy doing occasional time lapse photography of the clouds in changing light conditions.  We use an Android app called "Lapse It Pro" for our time lapses.  Even though both our phone and the app are decidedly "low rent" they produce excellent short time lapse videos.  We will link to some of them here soon.

5:21 PM, December 28, 2018


Repurposed for Hip Camp

On November 27, 2021, we repurposed this blog to help Hip Campers better understand our property.  Expect one or two new posts daily between now and the end of the year.  Yes, there's THAT much to talk about here.

The blog began when the feds were thinking about closing down Montezuma Well National Monument.  Luckily, that never happened and is no longer a worry.

We began buying land immediately adjacent to Montezuma Well Nat'l Monument in the early 1980's. We moved to our land in February 1993, after being flood out of our Cottonwood home alongside The Verde River.  We began construction of a straw bale home on April Fool's Day 1994.  We have enjoyed the delightful home ever since then.

In November 2021 we decided to create one campsite on our property.  As of Thanksgiving Day, site prep was complete.  We hope that the site becomes popular.  Because of its location beside the National Monument and the fact only one camper is allowed at a time, it offers unique opportunities for very high quality camping.

Thanks for visiting.  More coming soon.

11.25.2021

Wales & Sarah Arnold

This is an 1876 photo of the Wales Arnold Ranch at Montezuma Well.  Our property (and the HipCamp site are on the left edge of this photo. The photo is proof that the view toward the Mogollon Rim has not changed since then.  The original of this picture is in the Sharlot Hall Museum in Prescott, AZ.  The photo was most likely taken by W.H. Williscraft.  Below is an excellent article about Wales and his wife, Sarah.

CAMP VERDE - It takes more than desperation or ambition to survive the frontier. It takes self-confidence, bull headedness and a blend of courage and inventiveness we call moxie.

As a rule, the cautious never arrive. The cowards don't stay. And the stupid, the brash and the unfortunate die early.

When Wales Arnold passed away in 1913, he had survived everything the frontier had to offer, for just shy of 50 years. He left this world relatively unscratched, widely respected and still very much in love with his like-minded soul mate.

Born in the green pastures and eastern comforts of Massachusetts, on April 6, 1837, Arnold made his way to California, where, at the age of 24, he enlisted the California Volunteers.

He spent his three-year military career chasing the ghostly Confederacy as it feebly attempted to wrestle the American Southwest from the Union.

His unit would briefly occupy Tucson and the Rio Grande Valley before at establishing itself at Fort Craig, the Union's bulwark in the New Mexico Territory.

Then in 1863, he was assigned to escort a party of Eastern politicians sent west to establish the newly designated Arizona Territory. In December 1863, Arnold arrived at Fort Whipple, in the golf fields of central Arizona.

His enlistment papers show he was a carpenter, but like most red-blooded Americans coming west, his interests soon turned to mining. Sometime before he mustered out of the service on Aug. 29, 1864, Arnold did some prospecting.

In the Walker Mining District south of Fort Whipple, Arnold placed a monument on a quartz ledge that became known as the Accidental Claim.

He worked it when he could, in spite of the harassment of fellow miners who took a dim view of government soldiers staking claims. And although it was showing some base ores, he was eventually forced to abandon the claim.

Where he went from there is unknown, but it can be safely assumed his stature rose among the miners following his release from the Army. On September 5, 1866, the miners of the Lynx Creek District elected him Justice of the Peace.

Within about a year, however, he gave up mining for a new frontier, heading east to the growing but dangerous farming community in the Verde Valley.

In January 1868, the newspapers identified Wales Arnold and his partner George D. Bowers as the post traders as Fort Lincoln. They also reported that Arnold had grown the valley's first crop of alfalfa.

As the fort's sutlers, Bowers and Arnold made frequent trips to Prescott for goods, no doubt stopping at the Agua Fria Ranch, formerly owned by King Woolsey but now owned by George Bower's uncles, Nathan and Herbert Bowers.

However, the Bowers-Arnold partnership was cut short on Oct. 30, 1868. On one of his trips to Prescott, Indians killed George Bowers alongside a young soldier named Robert Nix.

The killing of Bowers and Nix outraged the white community, but did not stop Arnold from continuing on.

On one of his stops at the Bowers Ranch, Arnold met 17 year old, Sarah "Jenny" Wells, a Bowers family friend who had made her way to San Francisco via sailing ship, around the tip of South American. Wells was the cook at the Bowers Ranch, a busy stop over known to every Argonaut within a 200-mile radius.

One historian states that Arnold soon made the Bowers Ranch more than just a stop over, claiming he did his share of farm work while courting the cook.

On Oct. 24, 1869, Wales and Sarah married in Prescott, to the adulation of all who knew them, even the local press, not to mention one another.

Shortly afterward, Arnold left his job as post trader and along with his new partner, Joseph Burroughs, laid claim to 160 acres just west of well-known sinkhole, a place that became known as the Montezuma Well Ranch.

Isolated on upper Beaver Creek, they built two homes, one that was more like a fortress. It that had thick adobe walls, gun ports and a well dug in the interior of the building. They also built corrals, and irrigation ditch and were soon farming 20 acres.

But the world they lived in paid only a modicum of respect for preparedness. Sometimes bad fortune trumped the best of plans.

In early August 1871, Indians raided the Arnold ranch, driving off 14 mules and horses. While making off with the livestock, the raiders ran into Burroughs who was returning from a hunting trip.

Days later, just two miles from the ranch, his body discovered, "stripped naked, pierced in several places by arrows and bullets."

It was during this period that Arnold's established himself as one of the preeminent pioneers of the Verde valley.

He served on more than one occasion as a scout for Gen. George Crook in the Army's campaign against the Yavapai and Apache. He was contracted along with fellow scout Al Sieber to layout and supervise the building of a trail from Fort Verde to Fort Apache, that now bear's the general's name.

He was appointed an elections inspector in and in 1878 he was elected Justice of the Peace for the Beaver Creek District.

Then one day, in 1876, a soldier arrived at his door with a 2-year-old Indian girl in his arms. She had been found hiding in a cave following a skirmish with the Indians. Wales and Sarah took her in, named her Lulu and raised her as their own.

Sarah also began to take on a stature of her own, providing care to her neighbors and hospitality to every one who stopped in, with the exceptions of the Indians. She was forever known to pack a pistol no matter where she went or what she was doing.

The Arnold place, as most neighbors knew the ranch, was for several years the center of life along the banks of Beaver Creek. It served as the stage stop and post office. And in times of Indian scares its fortress home protected many area families.

In 1881, long after the Yavapai and Apache had been sent off to San Carlos, one of those Indian scares brought several families to the Arnold Ranch, including the family of William G. Wingfield. Impressed with what he saw, W. G. purchased the ranch in exchange for several head of cattle.

Wales and Sarah took their new stock and relocated to beautiful canyon with a flowing spring just south of Squaw Peak. They named it the Flower Pot Ranch, after the distinctive brand they applied to all of their stock.

In 1899, when the federal government auctioned off the five 40-acre parcels that composed the fort's post and surrounding area, the Arnolds purchased 40 acres. Shortly thereafter they sold the Flower Pot and moved into town, where it is said they operated a boarding house.

In 1909, the National Bank of Prescott reported the consignment of 226 ounces of gold, deposited by the Poland Mining Company. The gold, the newspapers reported, had come from the Accidental vein, located 45 years earlier by Wales Arnold, a soldier serving at fort Whipple.

That same year Wales Arnold lost his last and most faithful partner. With the money from the sale of the Flower Pot he ordered what was at the time perhaps the largest monument in the county, a six ton, three piece headstone of blue marble, to be placed over Sarah's final resting place.

Just three years later, on May 21, 1913, Wales passed away while living in Prescott.

A lifetime member of the International Order of Odd Fellows, his body was escorted from Prescott to Camp Verde by some 30 of his lodge members.

On the afternoon of May 25, a cavalcade of 11 automobiles, the Verde Valley's first funeral procession made solely of horseless carriages, left a trail of Verde Valley dust as it wound their way from Camp Verde to the small cemetery near Clear Creek.

At the little church next to the cemetery, 400 area residents also gathered to pay their respects and say good-bye to one of the last of the valley's true pioneers.

After a brief service, Wales was placed next to Sarah, where the two remain together, to this day.

1.22.2019

Prehistoric farming at The Well

A remnant of the pre-historic irrigation ditch is maintained for display & interpretive purposes at Montezuma Well.

At their peak, the people at Montezuma Well were farming about 60 acres, or possibly more, and their main ditch was about 1 mile long.

The first human occupation of central Arizona began several thousand years ago. Very little is known about these Indians, but there is archeological evidence which indicates that they were hunters and food gatherers. These people had no pottery, and probably had no permanent houses or farms. The only objects recovered from their campsites have been their crude stone tools. One such site was discovered and investigated a short distance north of Montezuma Castle National Monument in 1949.
Shortly after A. D. 600, the Verde Valley attracted another group of people. They were farmers who came from the south, near the vicinity of modern Phoenix. We call these people of southern Arizona, who were the first known permanent settlers in the Verde Valley, the “Hohokam.” They planted their crops in the bottom lands and built their houses on the adjacent terraces so they could overlook their fields. Their homes of poles, brush, and mud were individual dwellings large enough to house one family.

Utensils in the home were few, but important. They consisted of plain, unpolished, gray-brown pottery, used to hold water and food; grinding stones on which corn, nuts, and berries were ground; and hammerstones for crushing or mashing food. Also, such objects as scrapers for working hides, points for arrows, and knives for skinning game have been recovered by archeologists.

The Hohokam built a specialized structure not found among other prehistoric Indians of the Southwest. It was a prepared court, oval in shape, which bears a close similarity to the ball courts of Mexico. They may have played a game of some type on these courts which had some connection with their ceremonial rites, such as appears to have been the case in Central America. These people also had another trait which set them apart from other tribes—they cremated their dead.

There is no evidence of Hohokam occupation at Montezuma Castle, but remains of Hohokam type are found at Montezuma Well. We can imagine that a party of Indian colonists, about 1200 years ago, was very pleased to discover the Well and was as startled as we are to find a lake inside a hill.
In looking further, the Hohokam found the outlet on the south side of the Well through which a steady stream of water flowed, falling into Beaver Creek a few feet away. Here was a place to live! If this water could be diverted to the nearby flatlands, they would no longer need to depend on rain for their crops.

The Indians set about their task. They fashioned some stone hoes and dug a small section of ditch at the base of the cliff between the Well and Beaver Creek. After reaching the proper depth, a brush dam was made and the water was diverted from the outlet. Eager eyes watched the water enter and gradually fill their ditch. Another section was dug and water was again turned into it. High spots were noted and dug lower so the water would flow through. Rocky obstructions were broken with stone picks and river rocks. Sometimes the ground was too hard for their hoes, and water was allowed to flow in to soften it. Gradually their ditch was lengthened until it reached the flats which they planned to farm.

Their work was not yet complete, for the fields had to be cleared. Brush was cut, and fires were built at the base of large trees to burn the trunks until they weakened and fell.

Rocks which were cleared from the farm areas were lined up to mark the edges of small plots. Dirt was thrown over these rocks so water 6would not escape when the plots were irrigated. Some of the brush was saved for making dams to divert water from the main ditch to each of the farm plots. Small limbs from fallen trees were fashioned into digging and planting sticks. The fields were leveled with their stone hoes and tree limbs were dragged over the soil in a final smoothing process.

Finally they were ready for their planting. They had brought seeds of food crops—corn, beans, and squash—which were planted in these plots. Cotton was also planted. Then the water was turned onto the fields to complete their labor.

During the course of their pioneering work, this small group of Indians probably lived on the edge of the bluff above the fields and in three small caves along the bluff bordering their ditch. Food was not lacking, as the plants in the area provided them with many essentials. Mesquite beans, a common staple among the Indians, were plentiful in the late summer and autumn, as were walnuts, berries, wild gourds, and sunflower seeds.

Other plants, particularly yucca, supplied necessary fibers for making sandals, matting, cordage, baskets, and other articles. Reeds and hardwoods were available to make bows and arrows and other wooden implements for hunting rabbits and ducks around the Well. Hunting parties no doubt went to the foothills for larger game such as deer.

At about the same time that the Hohokam were in the valley, another group of Indians whom we call the “Sinagua,” lived in the forested foothills to the north and east, and on the plateau above. Their small villages were located in open areas that could be dry farmed, as 7they depended on rain water for their crops. Their houses, like those of the Hohokam, were made of poles, brush, and mud; however, they were dug into the ground, with just a small portion of the walls and the roof projecting above the ground level.

Their utensils and habits were similar to those of the Hohokam, though different in some respects. For example, in contrast to the Hohokam practice, the Sinagua polished their plain brown pottery. Also, it is known that after 1070, they buried their dead in an extended position instead of cremating them as the Hohokam did. Although the Sinagua were basically farmers like the Hohokam, at this time they depended to a greater extent on foods they gathered and meat they hunted than they did later.

About 1070, some of the Hohokam left the valley. Evidently many of these emigrants went north to the plateau region east of present-day Flagstaff, to plant in the moisture-conserving ash-fall area created by the eruption of Sunset Crater in 1064. Shortly after these Hohokam departed, many of the Sinagua moved down from the hills into the middle of the Verde Valley. This occurred about 1125. They lived much as they had before, but with two important changes: they 8adopted the Hohokam idea of irrigation, and they began building surface houses of rock and mud—an idea acquired from still another group, the Pueblo Indians, farther north. These Sinagua were the people who built the stone pueblos we find in the valley today.
At first they erected small settlements on well-drained ridges overlooking their farmlands. Occasionally, also, caves were utilized for dwellings; the first 3 or 4 rooms of Montezuma Castle were evidently built in the 1100’s.

From 1125 to 1200, the settlement at Montezuma Well was increased by groups of these Sinagua Indians who had left their homes in the foothills to the north and east. It appears that they joined some of the remaining Hohokam, as several customs of the latter survived up to 1400. In this period the Sinagua also utilized caves near their fields, and built a small pueblo on the west rim of Montezuma Well. Limestone rock for their masonry was available on the rim of the Well, and river boulders for foundations were taken from the creek. Mud and clay, which they mixed for their mortar, were easily obtained along the creek.

As the years passed, more land was put under cultivation and more ditches were constructed. To insure adequate care of their farmland, 91- and 2-room “farm” structures were built on the slopes above and along the course of the main ditch. From these, the occupants were able to view the fields while irrigating and also could divert the water from the ditch below them whenever necessary. At their peak, the people at Montezuma Well were farming about 60 acres, or possibly more, and their main ditch was about 1 mile long.

Shortly after 1400, in fact, Montezuma Castle and the entire Verde Valley were abandoned by the Sinagua. There is no direct evidence to supply us with the reason for this complete exodus—a combination of circumstances is the probable answer.

Source:  MONTEZUMA CASTLE NATIONAL MONUMENT Arizona
by Albert H. Schroeder and Homer F. Hastings

NATIONAL PARK SERVICE HISTORICAL HANDBOOK SERIES NO. 27
Washington, D. C. - 1958
(Reprint 1961)

11.29.2010

Last light on Mogollon Rim

This is a late November sunset as viewed looking east across the Montezuma Well Nat'l Monument's "Old Field."  That's The Mogollon Rim on the horizon.  (Photo taken 11-28-10)

We started this blog in late November 2010 "just in case" we'd need it someday.  Well, "someday" has come.  It appears increasingly likely that the NPS will close Montezuma Well Nat'l Monument in early March 2013.

This blog will be a clearing house of activities and efforts to keep The Well open.